My North Carolina Mountains, Reflecting On The First Week Of Fall

It may be an understatement to say that the Spring and Summer of 2013 will go down as something of a disappointment, nowhere more so than up here in the NC Mountains.
However, putting those disappointments behind me, I must say that these last couple of weeks of Summer have been, surprisingly...well, quite nice really. So, you can no doubt imagine my utter delight when the forecast for week one of Fall here was for a damn near perfect week. You know the sort, night-time temps in the high 40's- lo 50's and the daytime highs in the lo-mid 70's. Blue skies, breezy, puffy white clouds and not a drop of rain in sight.
Right! No doubts about where we’re going to spend the week. And little doubts of how.
Our little "mountain farm" should provide the perfect retreat. "Far from the maddening crowd" , but surprisingly convenient for a place most people would describe as "out in the sticks". It’s just a 15 minute drive to town. A 40 minute walk with nearly 500 foot gain in altitude to Virginia and the glorious ridge-line view. A 20 minute drive to the New River Trail. Oh...and a 2 minute walk to "Gordon Pond".
A whole week of walkin’, ridin’, eatin’, drinkin’, and just plain ole chillin’. That’s what I want!

Welcome to the "Farm"

Over the creek and through the woods...

Walkin’...
This is fantastic walking country, if, that is, you don’t mind a bit of ... ok, a lot of uphill walking. But, as they say, the view is most definitely worth the climb. Starting at around 2500 feet, you walk out the roughly level 1/4 mile driveway, turn left and.... bam! You’re looking up at the 8% grade of what we call "Fender Mountain". For the next mile or so, it’s nothing but up, up, up Fender Road. Passing by the neighboring dairies, we have 3  , and on to ever increasing long-range vistas. It’s a spectacular mixture of rolling green high mountain pastures with the hazy Blue Ridge as a backdrop. A network of these little lightly traveled rural roads provides a variety of choices for a daily walk. Once you top-out on the ridge, around 3000 feet , "huff-puff", the road levels out considerably, you find yourself surrounded by 360 degrees of jaw-dropping views. It’s just magical!!
At any time of the year, well at least the warm bits when I’m here, there’s always a rhythm of activity. Cutting, raking, baling and putting up the big rolls of hay. Planting, cutting and putting up the corn. Spraying the "organic" fertilizer on the newly mown or cleared fields. Tilling and planting the Winter cover crop. There is almost always the drone of a tractor in the air. It’s a strangely comforting sound, especially if you’re not the one running it.
This week, all around us... time to cut the corn. Tall, really tall corn. 10 foot or more from the Summer’s overly bountiful rains, turned lightly brown. Time to harvest. I pass my neighbor’s fields. The combine, gobbling up huge swaths of tall stalks, grinding it into silage and spewing it into it’s companion truck. And in just minutes, another there to take it’s place. Each lumbering off under it’s burden to the nearby "silage pit", where it is piled to ferment, and provide the cows with Winter feed. Sandy often jokes as we pass one of our neighbor’s pits on our walk, "I don’t know what smells worse, what goes in or what comes out"? Aint it true?
The rhythms of the farms, the daily sound of the milk truck run up and then down "Fender Mountain", the barely perceptible changes of the seasons, the wave of a passer bye, a brief stop to chat with a neighbor. Each of these parts being exceeded by the whole experience.
　

Up on the ridge



Almost like dancers, these two were perfectly synchronized



On the way up "Fender Mountain"

Ridin’...
There may have been a time in my life when I might have hopped on my bike and hauled my ass up "Fender Mountain" or the like... but, that time is not now.
That’s not to say I’ve lost my taste for riding, far from it actually. It’s just, I like my riding a bit more horizontal these days.
We are most fortunate indeed to have such a horizontal opportunity in the nearby New River Trail. It’s a rails-to-trails parkway complete with the original railway trestles and tunnels. The whole affair from Galax to Pulaski Virginia is about 56 miles. A bit ambitious perhaps, but, of course you can do it in stages. Our favorite stage... begin at the Galax trail head and ride the 12 miles or so along picturesque Chestnut Creek down to the junction at the New River. Brief rest, a long slow drink, often a chat with some other riders, and... it’s a delightful 12 miles ride back to Galax. Almost always a picnic lunch is enjoyed at a suitably scenic spot along the way. Now that’s what I call ridin’!!

A lovely way to spend the day. 

Lunchtime picnic at Chestnut Falls 

Eatin’...
The "farm experience" is heavy on the eatin’.
I love good food. I love to eat good food. And, I love to cook good food.
Good food is simple, fresh ingredients prepared simply. No heavy sauces to cover it up. No fru-fru presentations. I want to taste the freshness of each ingredient.
So.... a stop by the farmer’s market for some local fruit and veg, the grocery store and,  my kitchen’s stocked for the weeks feasting.
What do I cook? Well it’s Fall now. What I eat and drink will usually reflect the season.
Lunchtime’s a little cool today, I might prepare a hearty potato-leek soup with herbed pita toasts washed down with a hearty brown ale. Warm evening on the back deck might call for a onion/red pepper/squash/cauliflower/tomato ragu with farfalle pasta and a glass of Syrah. Yet another warm evening and charcoal grilled thick bone-in pork chops, brushed with Dijon mustard and sprinkled with herbes-de-provence, black pepper and kosher salt. The first half of that bottle of Syrah went perfectly. Another cool evening... braised NC cabbage with new potatoes, NC apples and smoked sausage. Oh... and more brown ale. Cooler evenings becoming the norm... saute the rest of that smoked sausage, make some milk gravy and biscuits... and skillet fried NC apples with lots of butter and cinnamon. Oh yeah....
And... there’s the local faves for a dinner out.
Brown’s Restaurant, family owned, is "home style" done right. Simple without an ounce of pretentiousness, they serve-up some mighty fine food. My choice is locally raised Rainbow Trout fried to a golden brown.
Mis Arados reflects the growing Latino presence in these Mountains. This family owned restaurant, well ingrained into the local culture, is always busy. This is without a doubt some of the best Mexican food I’ve had outside of Mexico. Ahh... Chilaquilles alla plancha (with chicken) and a cold Victoria.
Motleys out in Laurel Springs serves-up some surprisingly good Eastern NC style barbecue . For those of you who don’t know, it’s smoked pork butts, pulled (shredded) with a vinegar based sauce, and....it’s served on a plate, not a bun, with barbecue slaw and fries (sweet potato being my choice).
How can I eat so much? Well yes I do love to eat, a lot of things, but... I just don’t especially like to eat a whole lot at a time.
And... remember all that walkin’ and ridin’.
　

Drinkin’...
It’s true, good food and good drink make life so much more pleasant.
Just as my Fall palate for food changes, so it does for drink.
Summer will find me with a crisp Lager or Pilsner. A fruity/dry white , perhaps a blend, and, of course, a dry French Rose (always). All perfect for the lighter fresh Summer fare.
Fall’s arrival finds me drinking the brown ales, maybe a Belgian, an English or even a Munich Oktoberfest.
Wines trend to be full flavored reds, a Syrah, a Cote-du-Rhone, Bordeaux or Burgundy. Perfect for the heartier Fall/Winter cuisine.  
And then....
And then there's Champagne! Champagne I will drink at any time with almost any food. It is quite simply, nearly a perfect food wine.  Really!   And,  I just love it!

Warm Fall day by the pond. Sipping a glass. Maybe a dark Rose... a Chardonnay blend.... Champagne.....

Just makes life so much more pleasant.
　

Chillin’...
　
With all that walkin’, ridin’, eatin’ and drinkin’ it might sound little time’s left for just plain ole chillin’. You’d be wrong to think that.
I’m a strong believer in sittin’ on the front porch doing nuttin’ in particular. Maybe watchin’ the leaves fall or the light as it filters through the trees. Idle time is it’s own reward.
And... there’s "Gordon Pond". It’s the prize of the farm. 20 years ago my father upon seeing this swampy piece of land said "son, you need to build yourself a pond there". Heard that over and over. He’s gone now. Five years ago I finally built that pond, "Gordon Pond".
It’s a place just made for idling away an afternoon, sipping a glass of Rose and watching the big puffy white clouds drift by.
The water, by now a bit too cool. The hot sunny days, tubing on the pond, cold beer in my hand ... now just a memory.
But still... warm afternoon, sun on bare skin, cool breeze blowing across the pond, glass of bubbly in hand, best girl by my side.
Oh yeah. This is pretty sweet.

"Gordon Pond"

Bubbly by the pond

La Fragata

Playa del Carmen, Mexico.
Corner of 1st Ave. And 26^th St.
One block from my apartment.
I have walked past here for two years, probably 40-50 times, at least.
Hidden in plain sight, little palapa roof jutting out and over the sidewalk.
La Fragata.    Now, I have to say that I am maybe more than a little disappointed in myself. Maybe, I thought it was just some little local neighborhood bar or something. Who knows what I thought.
But... as I said, "hiding there in plain sight" was truly a "gem".
A charming and petite (really petite) little restaurant, maybe 8-10 tables. Open front and spilling out onto that palapa covered sidewalk.
Just the sort of place I’m always on the lookout for.
The menu (there are only four copies, so you may have to wait a bit for one) is brief and heavily tilted toward the local seafood. A blackboard as you enter, list the daily specials, and they really are specials and they really do change daily.
The star here is the food.
Simple, fresh and local ingredients, prepared simply. No overpowering seasonings or heavy sauces. Chef Beatriz guides their preparation with a delicate touch.
The subtle tastes of fresh fish and shellfish, they shone through. When this is done well, as it is here, the experience is, well, quite magical.
Chef Beatriz Valenzo Olivar can craft some mighty fine food!
Like... The Shrimp Tacos. Done in an understated marinade, lightly grilled with a hint of carmelisation and served on fresh corn tortillas, three to a plate. They are nothing short of spectacular. Fresh brite flavors of lime, cilantro, onions..., but, it’s the shrimp. The shrimp are the star of this show. Tender, sweet and fresh, they taste of the sea. Add a cold Bohemia Clara, pure perfection!
These are a must!!
So let's see... what else have I tried? Well... there's the fish tacos, grilled and fried... Sandy's favorite, and a very  close second to the shrimp tacos in my opinion. The soups, a fantastic Caldo de Marisco (seafood soup) and a totally cool Crema (cream soup) made with Chaya, a spinich-like herb common to Mexico. Or how about the best grilled sea bass in butter sauce that I think I've ever tasted and a sea bass cooked French style "en papillote", in a packet with fresh herbs and vegetables.
Seriously, I do not exagerate! The food is simply amazing!
We have dined here now no less than a half a dozen times. It really is that good!
Chef B. runs the back of the house. Her brother Francisco runs the front along with their delightful staff. All were committed to ensuring that you felt welcome and were completely satisfied with your dining experience.
Oh... and if they happen to have fresh mussels (mejillones) on the blackboard, go for it!
Positively the best mussels I’ve had anywhere outside of France.

I still can’t believe that I missed this little jewel  in the past years. But, next year, you can bet I won’t miss it!
To all our friends at La Fragata, thank’s.
Best of luck and see you next year.

Kevin

Palapa covered sidewalk at La Fragata

The awesome Shrimp and Fish Tacos

Menu at La Fragata

More menu at La Fragata

Playa, "Teasing Her Charms"

So, if I’m going to be honest with you here, Playa was not going to be my first choice for a Winter escape. But, I mean, let’s be serious, it’s all about the beach, now isn’t it?

Well at least that’s how it started back in 2011 when we spent a couple of weeks in Playa and a couple in Puerto Vallarta
Playa was not Puerto Vallarta. PV had a thriving arts community, a lovely little public market and that wonderful Malecon with it’s famous public sculptures. It had soul!
It did not, however, have a great beach. Really! It didn’t!
Oh, you could take a water taxi or public bus , and in an hour or less could be on a pretty decent beach, but... the Pacific. Well in short, it’s grey, a bit too rough and the sand is a dull brown.
Yeah, I know... picky, picky, picky.
Sandy says, if you could take the beach at Playa and move it to PV, well... you’d have perfection.

Now, all of this isn’t to suggest that Playa’s an awful place, far from it in fact. And don’t forget, PV is the "also ran" in this story.
No, it’s just that, Playa, well, it takes a bit more effort to "tease her charms" into view.
Obviously, there’s that beach. The "illuminated" turquoise water, the white sand and the gentle surf. Yes, as beaches go, this one’s just about perfect.
Oh... and there’s also the matter of a relatively inexpensive and short (2.5hrs) direct flight to Playa. It’s plenty big enough to offer all the "mod-cons", but not too big and it’s managed to avoid the 24 hour party that is Cancun. Add to that an affordable well furnished apartment at the Luna Blue boutique hotel. Big palapa covered patios with a beautiful courtyard garden. Lovingly managed by some of the nicest people you'll ever meet and... just two blocks from the beach!
Well... nobody’s canceled Winter as of yet, and with three years and counting, I’m finding more and more of Playa’s charms. You know, it’s really turning out to be a pretty sweet place to "sit-out" Winter.
Now... what about that beach!
Sometimes you just gotta let the pictures do the talking’ for you.

                              

I know that I’m really spoiled here, my "home beach" is Mamita’s Beach. Two blocks down and one over, less than a five minute walk. That’s it! And... it just happens to probably be the finest stretch of beach in Playa.


The "Flora and Fauna" of the Beach
I love Palm Trees. I love Palm Trees even more along a beach. Palm Trees mean I’m somewhere I want to be. A beach with Coconut Palm Trees, well that’s perfect, now isn’t it?
You see, I’m absolutely crazy about coconut. I could eat, or drink, . coconut in just about any way you could imagine.
Just mind where you sit... those coconuts, they have a nasty habit of falling.
　

Mind The Coconuts

And now, a word about the "fauna" of the beach.
I’m totally unapologetic about my keen fondness for the "scenery" of the beach.
Acres of mostly young, bare, brown female form.
I mean, if you’re a normal healthy hetero male, and I am, then this place might seem near to Heaven.
Topless,,, yeah you got that here, don’t mind it a bit. But... it’s those Brazilian bottoms I’m talking’ about. I mean, just check em out. They’re everywhere... and, well... they’re lovely.
Now, on this I gotta say I'm luckier than most. Sandy probably doesn't condone my "fondness" but she tends to overlook it, and... "I always remember who I came to the dance with".    

The beach is at most points, broad and with a gentle slope. Perfect for walking, and, there are few things I adore more than a long walk along the beach. I’ve blogged about this before, but, it’s almost a spiritual experience for me.

                     

Being Kevin you just knew that sooner or later, this would all segue into food, didn’t you?
Well, late in the morning as I return from my long walk along the beach, I stop by my favorite frutas (fruit) vendor. He parks his little pedal cart a few blocks up the beach from Mamita’s. For me a stop is obligatory. A cup of freshly cut pineapple sticks with a squeeze of lime juice and a sprinkle of arbol chile powder. If that sounds a bit odd, I’m here to tell you, it’s delicious!
Back at Mamita’s, Sandy waits for me to return, pineapple in hand. Also means it's about time for the first cerveza (beer) of the day.
Order up!

Now, I love good food, and I love to eat out. But, there’s no way I could eat out every day for a month straight, no matter how good the food . No way!
Well, with one notable exception, that is. Lunch... ceviche, as good as it gets. Ceviche... every day!
Yes, every day!





Our Daily Ceviche



So, I need a place to cook and I need a fresh Market.
Our apartment comes with a decent little kitchen, and... don’t laugh, I bring an electric grille. Come on now... I love grilled meats, and, with a palapa roofed patio, you probably don’t want to grille with charcoal, do you? I also bring my own knives and an assortment of spices.
I’d say, I’m pretty well set-up.
The market, well, it’s not exactly a public produce market... bit disappointing that. But the DAK Market, a privately owned green market also with bulk foods and specialty items serves adequately in the absence of a public market.
Add two big grocery stores and a couple of Italian deli markets, all within a 6, maybe 7 block walk. It works.
I’m often asked, "what do you cook". Well, pretty much what I do anywhere. My cuisine is , best described as, Mediterranean in style. You know, French, Italian and North African. Lots of fresh salads, grilled meats, seafoods and pasta dishes.
Oh, I love Mexican food, and I do prepare it often back in North Carolina. But, here, there’s just so much good authentic Mexican food to be had. Why would I try to top that?

Check Out Those Grill Marks

The only real challenge might be sometimes finding the right ingredients, or, a suitable substitute. Again, there’s always that "similar but different" thing goin’ on.
For instance, try to find black pepper around here. You see, Mexican people don’t use it so much.
I'm sure they're like,  we have 200 kinds of chile peppers, who needs black pepper?
So this year, I brought one of those bottles of black pepper with the grinder on top.
You adapt.

We’ll eat-in maybe four nights a week, leaving three to eat out. Making them a little special, if you will.
Between our apartment and the beach you’ll find 5^th Ave., the epicenter of tacky-touristy Playa.
Mediocre food at inflated prices. Just like tourist fare anywhere and defiantly not for me.
Go back from the beach a mere 3-4 blocks and... they’re there. Wonderful little authentic and inexpensive eateries.
I’ve already written about this year’s "find" La Fragata. We’re absolutely crazy about this place!
Over near the DAK Market , off 30^th is another favorite. An authentic old-style Mexican grille. El Fogon is my go-to for Arrechera. Skirt steak, thinly sliced and marinaded in a garlic marinade. Grilled over charcoal, served with beans, cactus, grilled knob onions, guacamole, an assortment of salsas from mild to explosive and fresh warm corn tortillas. Oh my! Yuum!
Love their Tacos al Pastor. Similar in idea to Middle Eastern Gyro’s, but made with wonderfully seasoned pork, served with a piece of fresh pineapple on a corn tortilla. Yeah!!
A cold cerveza, or two, and I’m good!
Also, this year we stumbled upon Restuarante Mestizo, a lovely little Italian-Mexican fusion open-fronted bistro nearby. Had maybe the best bruscetta I’ve ever eaten, made with fire roasted tomatoes and lotsa EVO and garlic on lightly "charred" crostinis. This was followed by an absolutely yummy Fettuccine Alfredo with a guacamole sauce. Hey, it worked!
I didn’t see beer on the menu, so when I asked, the Italian owner/waiter in my worst Italian/Spanish/English, he  replied,  "no problemo".
What kind? He then dashed a couple of doors down the street, into a little c-store, and returned with two cold beers. Nothing to it!
His partner, swears her Bologinese Sauce is the real thing, to die for. Gotta try it she says.
Next year...
We’ve now found quite a few little places like these. They make things interesting. Great food with low prices and charming people. They’re real! They’re here!
You just have to look for them.
Love it!

                       
                                    



Making The Al Pastor Tacos At El Fogon


And more...
How about the little wine shop, Off The Vine, not two blocks from the apartment. Wow, what a great selection of Mexican Wines he has. Never tried them before. Scarce in the US . Who knew they'd be this good! And a couple of Italian delis, real Proccuitto and Pecarino. Or a fresh pasta shop, Util Pasta. And... don’t forget... Chez Celine, a French owned bakery with awesome baguettes and croissants.
Put it all together, it works!

Yeah....
Given the chance, Playa really grows on you. This year I came determined to "tease-out" some more of her charms.
Yeah, the beach is totally awesome. But, that can all get a bit one dimensional. I need  more sometimes, and... I’m finding it right here in Playa

Kev



 

                                                               

I Just Love Odd Little Things Like This

Garden Courtyard At our Apartment