So, if I’m going to be honest with you here, Playa was not going to be my first choice for a Winter escape. But, I mean, let’s be serious, it’s all about the beach, now isn’t it?
Well at least that’s how it started back in 2011 when we spent a couple of weeks in Playa and a couple in Puerto Vallarta
Playa was not Puerto Vallarta. PV had a thriving arts community, a lovely little public market and that wonderful Malecon with it’s famous public sculptures. It had soul!
It did not, however, have a great beach. Really! It didn’t!
Oh, you could take a water taxi or public bus , and in an hour or less could be on a pretty decent beach, but... the Pacific. Well in short, it’s grey, a bit too rough and the sand is a dull brown.
Yeah, I know... picky, picky, picky.
Sandy says, if you could take the beach at Playa and move it to PV, well... you’d have perfection.
Now, all of this isn’t to suggest that Playa’s an awful place, far from it in fact. And don’t forget, PV is the "also ran" in this story.
No, it’s just that, Playa, well, it takes a bit more effort to "tease her charms" into view.
Obviously, there’s that beach. The "illuminated" turquoise water, the white sand and the gentle surf. Yes, as beaches go, this one’s just about perfect.
Oh... and there’s also the matter of a relatively inexpensive and short (2.5hrs) direct flight to Playa. It’s plenty big enough to offer all the "mod-cons", but not too big and it’s managed to avoid the 24 hour party that is Cancun. Add to that an affordable well furnished apartment at the
Luna Blue boutique hotel. Big palapa covered patios with a beautiful courtyard garden. Lovingly managed by some of the nicest people you'll ever meet and... just two blocks from the beach!
Well... nobody’s canceled Winter as of yet, and with three years and counting, I’m finding more and more of Playa’s charms. You know, it’s really turning out to be a pretty sweet place to "sit-out" Winter.
Now... what about that beach!
Sometimes you just gotta let the pictures do the talking’ for you.
I know that I’m really spoiled here, my "home beach" is
Mamita’s Beach. Two blocks down and one over, less than a five minute walk. That’s it! And... it just happens to probably be the finest stretch of beach in Playa.
The "Flora and Fauna" of the Beach
I love Palm Trees. I love Palm Trees even more along a beach. Palm Trees mean I’m somewhere I want to be. A beach with Coconut Palm Trees, well that’s perfect, now isn’t it?
You see, I’m absolutely crazy about coconut. I could eat, or drink, . coconut in just about any way you could imagine.
Just mind where you sit... those coconuts, they have a nasty habit of falling.
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| Mind The Coconuts |
And now, a word about the "fauna" of the beach.
I’m totally unapologetic about my keen fondness for the "scenery" of the beach.
Acres of mostly young, bare, brown female form.
I mean, if you’re a normal healthy hetero male, and I am, then this place might seem near to Heaven.
Topless,,, yeah you got that here, don’t mind it a bit. But... it’s those Brazilian bottoms I’m talking’ about. I mean, just check em out. They’re everywhere... and, well... they’re lovely.
Now, on this I gotta say I'm luckier than most. Sandy probably doesn't condone my "fondness" but she tends to overlook it, and... "I always remember who I came to the dance with".
The beach is at most points, broad and with a gentle slope. Perfect for walking, and, there are few things I adore more than a long walk along the beach. I’ve blogged about this before, but, it’s almost a spiritual experience for me.
Being Kevin you just knew that sooner or later, this would all segue into food, didn’t you?
Well, late in the morning as I return from my long walk along the beach, I stop by my favorite frutas (fruit) vendor. He parks his little pedal cart a few blocks up the beach from
Mamita’s. For me a stop is obligatory. A cup of freshly cut pineapple sticks with a squeeze of lime juice and a sprinkle of arbol chile powder. If that sounds a bit odd, I’m here to tell you, it’s delicious!
Back at
Mamita’s, Sandy waits for me to return, pineapple in hand. Also means it's about time for the first cerveza (beer) of the day.
Order up!
Now, I love good food, and I love to eat out. But, there’s no way I could eat out every day for a month straight, no matter how good the food . No way!
Well, with one notable exception, that is. Lunch... ceviche, as good as it gets. Ceviche... every day!
Yes, every day!
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| Our Daily Ceviche |
So, I need a place to cook and I need a fresh Market.
Our apartment comes with a decent little kitchen, and... don’t laugh, I bring an electric grille. Come on now... I love grilled meats, and, with a palapa roofed patio, you probably don’t want to grille with charcoal, do you? I also bring my own knives and an assortment of spices.
I’d say, I’m pretty well set-up.
The market, well, it’s not exactly a public produce market... bit disappointing that. But the
DAK Market, a privately owned green market also with bulk foods and specialty items serves adequately in the absence of a public market.
Add two big grocery stores and a couple of Italian deli markets, all within a 6, maybe 7 block walk. It works.
I’m often asked, "what do you cook". Well, pretty much what I do anywhere. My cuisine is , best described as, Mediterranean in style. You know, French, Italian and North African. Lots of fresh salads, grilled meats, seafoods and pasta dishes.
Oh, I love Mexican food, and I do prepare it often back in North Carolina. But, here, there’s just so much good authentic Mexican food to be had. Why would I try to top that?
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| Check Out Those Grill Marks |
The only real challenge might be sometimes finding the right ingredients, or, a suitable substitute. Again, there’s always that "similar but different" thing goin’ on.
For instance, try to find black pepper around here. You see, Mexican people don’t use it so much.
I'm sure they're like, we have 200 kinds of chile peppers, who needs black pepper?
So this year, I brought one of those bottles of black pepper with the grinder on top.
You adapt.
We’ll eat-in maybe four nights a week, leaving three to eat out. Making them a little special, if you will.
Between our apartment and the beach you’ll find 5
th Ave., the epicenter of tacky-touristy Playa.
Mediocre food at inflated prices. Just like tourist fare anywhere and defiantly not for me.
Go back from the beach a mere 3-4 blocks and... they’re there. Wonderful little authentic and inexpensive eateries.
I’ve already written about this year’s "find"
La Fragata. We’re absolutely crazy about this place!
Over near the
DAK Market , off 30
th is another favorite. An authentic old-style Mexican grille.
El Fogon is my go-to for Arrechera. Skirt steak, thinly sliced and marinaded in a garlic marinade. Grilled over charcoal, served with beans, cactus, grilled knob onions, guacamole, an assortment of salsas from mild to explosive and fresh warm corn tortillas. Oh my! Yuum!
Love their Tacos al Pastor. Similar in idea to Middle Eastern Gyro’s, but made with wonderfully seasoned pork, served with a piece of fresh pineapple on a corn tortilla. Yeah!!
A cold cerveza, or two, and I’m good!
Also, this year we stumbled upon
Restuarante Mestizo, a lovely little Italian-Mexican fusion open-fronted bistro nearby. Had maybe the best bruscetta I’ve ever eaten, made with fire roasted tomatoes and lotsa EVO and garlic on lightly "charred" crostinis. This was followed by an absolutely yummy Fettuccine Alfredo with a guacamole sauce. Hey, it worked!
I didn’t see beer on the menu, so when I asked, the Italian owner/waiter in my worst Italian/Spanish/English, he replied, "no problemo".
What kind? He then dashed a couple of doors down the street, into a little c-store, and returned with two cold beers. Nothing to it!
His partner, swears her Bologinese Sauce is the real thing, to die for. Gotta try it she says.
Next year...
We’ve now found quite a few little places like these. They make things interesting. Great food with low prices and charming people. They’re real! They’re here!
You just have to look for them.
Love it!
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| Making The Al Pastor Tacos At El Fogon |
And more...
How about the little wine shop,
Off The Vine, not two blocks from the apartment. Wow, what a great selection of Mexican Wines he has. Never tried them before. Scarce in the US . Who knew they'd be this good! And a couple of Italian delis, real Proccuitto and Pecarino. Or a fresh pasta shop,
Util Pasta. And... don’t forget...
Chez Celine, a French owned bakery with awesome baguettes and croissants.
Put it all together, it works!
Yeah....
Given the chance, Playa really grows on you. This year I came determined to "tease-out" some more of her charms.
Yeah, the beach is totally awesome. But, that can all get a bit one dimensional. I need more sometimes, and... I’m finding it right here in Playa
Kev
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| I Just Love Odd Little Things Like This |
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| Garden Courtyard At our Apartment |
