Chasing Eternal Spring: La Fragata

Playa del Carmen, Mexico.
Corner of 1st Ave. And 26^th St.
One block from my apartment.
I have walked past here for two years, probably 40-50 times, at least.
Hidden in plain sight, little palapa roof jutting out and over the sidewalk.
La Fragata. Now, I have to say that I am maybe more than a little disappointed in myself. Maybe, I thought it was just some little local neighborhood bar or something. Who knows what I thought.
But... as I said, "hiding there in plain sight" was truly a "gem".
A charming and petite (really petite) little restaurant, maybe 8-10 tables. Open front and spilling out onto that palapa covered sidewalk.
Just the sort of place I’m always on the lookout for.
The menu (there are only four copies, so you may have to wait a bit for one) is brief and heavily tilted toward the local seafood. A blackboard as you enter, list the daily specials, and they really are specials and they really do change daily.
The star here is the food.
Simple, fresh and local ingredients, prepared simply. No overpowering seasonings or heavy sauces. Chef Beatriz guides their preparation with a delicate touch.
The subtle tastes of fresh fish and shellfish, they shone through. When this is done well, as it is here, the experience is, well, quite magical.
Chef Beatriz Valenzo Olivar can craft some mighty fine food!
Like... The Shrimp Tacos. Done in an understated marinade, lightly grilled with a hint of carmelisation and served on fresh corn tortillas, three to a plate. They are nothing short of spectacular. Fresh brite flavors of lime, cilantro, onions..., but, it’s the shrimp. The shrimp are the star of this show. Tender, sweet and fresh, they taste of the sea. Add a cold Bohemia Clara, pure perfection!
These are a must!!
So let's see... what else have I tried? Well... there's the fish tacos, grilled and fried... Sandy's favorite, and a very close second to the shrimp tacos in my opinion. The soups, a fantastic Caldo de Marisco (seafood soup) and a totally cool Crema (cream soup) made with Chaya, a spinich-like herb common to Mexico. Or how about the best grilled sea bass in butter sauce that I think I've ever tasted and a sea bass cooked French style "en papillote", in a packet with fresh herbs and vegetables.
Seriously, I do not exagerate! The food is simply amazing!
We have dined here now no less than a half a dozen times. It really is that good!
Chef B. runs the back of the house. Her brother Francisco runs the front along with their delightful staff. All were committed to ensuring that you felt welcome and were completely satisfied with your dining experience.
Oh... and if they happen to have fresh mussels (mejillones) on the blackboard, go for it!
Positively the best mussels I’ve had anywhere outside of France.

I still can’t believe that I missed this little jewel in the past years. But, next year, you can bet I won’t miss it!
To all our friends at La Fragata, thank’s.
Best of luck and see you next year.

Kevin