Lost In A Dream....

Or... On Walking As Meditation

My last full day in PDC... I'm at the beach of course. This place, it's "La Sirena", she has worked her bit of magic on me. It's sensual and seductive. I've not yet "slipped into the blue" but I have entered an altered state here.
I walk. It's perfect, so that's what I do.. I walk. I walk beyond the crowds. I walk to the "edge of civilization". As the crowds thin to a few and the miles tick by I enter into a rarified state where sand and shore... where sky and surf meet.
Winter, that other time and place, I might not allow my mind this endless freedom.. my fear of those dark thoughts that can enter uninvited. But here, here there are no such concerns. I'm in that space between sea and sky. my thoughts no more significant than those puffy white clouds before me.
My legs.. effortlessly they propel me on and on. I just want to keep going, it is pure joy. I know, however, that however far I go, I must go again. A sobering thought at this "intoxicated" moment. I go all the way to the little "cenote", a spot where black holes in the earth allow fresh water to bubble forth. hundreds of gallons, just seconds away from the surf. It's hot! I'm hot! The walk exacting it's toll. I go to the dark wound, gushing forth... it's cold, deliciously cold as I lie and let it wash over me. This feeling... it is new to me. A hot spring in reverse.
Refreshed, I turn back, that sobering knowledge of how far I've come. I pass the fisherfolk, now fimilar to me and I them, their lean-to beneath the palms, their nets stretching out into the surf. One son walking the nets. One now two enormous pescado are pulled from his nets. He grins at me as I look his way. I, thumbs up, he bigger grin still. His family will eat well today.
The peoples thicken. Spanish, English, Italian and French... a subtle calcophany surrounds me. Everone happy, all drawn by the same "Sirena", all sucombing to her charms. Hey. I'm here. I'm back, Mamitas. My chair, my parasol awaits. Staff, now "old friends", they know my habits well. Ceverza meister Keveen? Si senor. Dos cervesas.

Mexico, First Impressions, Cont'd....

A bit cloudy today and decidedly "un-beachy", un-tropical weather. Hummm... it could be worse. Oh well, a day for laundry and a few chores, a bit of blog perhaps.

"The Sense of Place"

Drove up to Chichen-Itza on Thursday to see the "greatest" of Mayan ruins. As a child in the early '60s I would go there vicariously many times through the National Geographic and it's expeditions. I knew that someday, I too would go there. A promise made. Today is someday!!
About 100 km up the road and I realize that I have forgotten my camera. Damn! But wait a minute. I've come to realize that a camera image comes at a cost. You can become so preoccupied with capturing the moment, the composition, that you fail to see what's in front of you. You fall out of the moment. And, well, let's face it, far better photographers than I have captured awesome images of this place. What can I hope to add to that. Well then, I feel much better now.
Took about 3 hours of "Mexican Driving", good roads... 1 1/2 lanes on each side. You just sorta squeeze over to the edge (our emergency lane) avoiding the precipitous drop-off, and buses, enormous double trailered trucks and cars go right up the middle. It's more than a little un-nerving at first, but somehow it works.

Upon arrival, my stomach a bit aflutter with anticipation, we have the greatest good fortune to happen upon, or perhaps he happend upon us, a young Mayan man, Rennie, who was a government licensed guide. This would be absolutely the best US$50 that I have ever spent. He was so proud of his Mayan ancestry. He was of this place. He spoke the Mayan. He had a deep understanding of the history and culture of the Maya. And most importantly, perhaps, he spoke beautiul English. If you were willing, he was ready and able to take you on a "trip". Without Rennie, the whole experience would have been sadly different.
His enthusiasm and depth of understanding of all things Maya brought the stones to "life". I would "close" my eyes and through his words and the "magic" of this place I could see great crowds, 1000's of people gathered before the great pyramid
towering above, each awaiting a sign, a promise of hope. These were not ghosts, but, in that moment and in my mind I could "hear" the roar of the crowd as the morning sunrise pierced the doorway at the top of the pyramid. The "magic" announcing the comming of Spring. fertility, rebirth. Time to plant anew. Decrees of such announced by the governer from atop the great pyramid, the crowds roar. It is deafening!!! It was all so exciting
And at the ball court, the game, the game of life playing out for hours, even days, as it has for generations. Re-telling the ancient stories of the Maya. Appealing to the gods for the return of the life-giving rains. To the victors the glory. Their captain gladly giving himself to the sacrifice that would transport him to the place of the gods. That which would ensure the coming of the rains. Another year of life for the people of Chichen-Itza. His head atop a wooden pole, mounted on the altar of the skulls for all to see. The ultimate honor. The crowd stands before, mesmerized by the sight. Me too. Bloodsport!!!
Seriously, I found the hair standing up on the back of my neck. I had come to this place expecting much. I'm not exactly sure what, but, I would leave here having experienced so much more.

Back in Playa del Carmen, surrounded by the modern day Maya faces who clean my room,serve my food and drink. I just can't shake the feeling that I've seen them before in a different time and place, both now a little confused in my mind. Me, almost moving back and forth, here and there. Then and now.
Must remember to locate that copy of the "Popol-Vuh" I acquired long ago but never read. Rennie said that everything that is to be known is in that book.
Wow!!

Mexico-First Impressions

PDC- Playa del Carmen
Playa Mamitas (beach)
09:30AM CST 11.01 11 (26 C)

Day 01 Sol, ceviche, muchas cervesas
Day 02 Sol, ceviche, muchas cervesas
day 03 Burnt/brown, ceviche, muchas cervesas
Day 04 Burnt brown, oh god, i think my insides are pickled (ceviche), muchas cervesas
Day 05 Burnt/brown, pickled insides, pickled head (muchas cervesas)
Day 06, 07... keveen ees comfortably numb. Si!

I really must admit to coming here with only modest expectations. I mean, resort towns tend to be , well, resort towns. Playa, is a bit of a pleasant little surprise.
The beach is quite simply awesome! Always ranked among the top ten in the world, it's easy to see why. Bigger surprise however, Mexicans on the beach. Families, couples, singles, seemingly all classes and means. It was refreshing for me to see so many local people on the beach and working in the businesses. It may seem obvious, but I have been to many places where this is not the norm. I find all this to be much more equitable and to my liking.
Avendia 5- pedestrian- touristy- oh yeah! But with a splash of the local color. Chains, yes there are some here, but much more local business than I expected. Pricey, oh yeah! Can be. But it's mixed and go a block or two off Av 5 and it gets real, real fast. Real Mexican (Mayan). Real cheap. This is what I'm lookin' for.
Little resturant Dona Mary, personal recomendation of the staff at the Hotel Luna Blue, a perfect example. Outdoor patio only, 20h, we're the only gringoes in the house but no "hey, gringoes in the house" looks. Just lotsa ordinary folks having good food and a good time.
Me- a homemade tamale in bannana leaf, a sabulte (sort of a chicken tostada) and a killer chicken/cheese empanada. Sandy- a tamale, two sabultes. With two "cocas" Mex$82. That's less than US$10! Unbelivable! And so real. So many of these little places, so little time.
We're in the Playa Norte (little Italy). A lot of Italians and other Europeans winter here, therefore, a lot of Italian resturants. Shop carefully on 5th and you'll find great food that won't break the bank. Last night Sandy want's comfort food, and tonight that means pasta. A little open patio resturant on the corner of Calle 26 & Av 5, just above our hotel fits the bill nicely. Atmospheric, good food and cheap (for 5th) at US$45. Cafe seating, me streetside and who should I spot walking by but Chef Jaques Pepin. He's got a place here in Playa, so no surprise I guess. I nodded, he nodded. Yep, we're old buds now.
A word of caution to my wine loving friends, it's here and boy is it expensive. I'm sure there's a big import duty on wine, and, you know my mantra. Eat locally, drink locally. Drink wine in wine making countries and beer where they make beer. The beer here is excellent, cheap and, hey, it goes with the food really well.
About that ceviche! It's raw fish, shrimp, conch or octopus "cooked" in lime juice with onions, tomatoes and cilantro. Oh my god, this stuff is "crack" seafood and man I am so addicted. Lunch now for 6 days and counting, and, can't see me stoppin' any time soon.
More adventures just around the corner

TBC.......