A bit cloudy today and decidedly "un-beachy", un-tropical weather. Hummm... it could be worse. Oh well, a day for laundry and a few chores, a bit of blog perhaps.
"The Sense of Place"
Drove up to Chichen-Itza on Thursday to see the "greatest" of Mayan ruins. As a child in the early '60s I would go there vicariously many times through the National Geographic and it's expeditions. I knew that someday, I too would go there. A promise made. Today is someday!!
About 100 km up the road and I realize that I have forgotten my camera. Damn! But wait a minute. I've come to realize that a camera image comes at a cost. You can become so preoccupied with capturing the moment, the composition, that you fail to see what's in front of you. You fall out of the moment. And, well, let's face it, far better photographers than I have captured awesome images of this place. What can I hope to add to that. Well then, I feel much better now.
Took about 3 hours of "Mexican Driving", good roads... 1 1/2 lanes on each side. You just sorta squeeze over to the edge (our emergency lane) avoiding the precipitous drop-off, and buses, enormous double trailered trucks and cars go right up the middle. It's more than a little un-nerving at first, but somehow it works.
Upon arrival, my stomach a bit aflutter with anticipation, we have the greatest good fortune to happen upon, or perhaps he happend upon us, a young Mayan man, Rennie, who was a government licensed guide. This would be absolutely the best US$50 that I have ever spent. He was so proud of his Mayan ancestry. He was of this place. He spoke the Mayan. He had a deep understanding of the history and culture of the Maya. And most importantly, perhaps, he spoke beautiul English. If you were willing, he was ready and able to take you on a "trip". Without Rennie, the whole experience would have been sadly different.
His enthusiasm and depth of understanding of all things Maya brought the stones to "life". I would "close" my eyes and through his words and the "magic" of this place I could see great crowds, 1000's of people gathered before the great pyramid
towering above, each awaiting a sign, a promise of hope. These were not ghosts, but, in that moment and in my mind I could "hear" the roar of the crowd as the morning sunrise pierced the doorway at the top of the pyramid. The "magic" announcing the comming of Spring. fertility, rebirth. Time to plant anew. Decrees of such announced by the governer from atop the great pyramid, the crowds roar. It is deafening!!! It was all so exciting
And at the ball court, the game, the game of life playing out for hours, even days, as it has for generations. Re-telling the ancient stories of the Maya. Appealing to the gods for the return of the life-giving rains. To the victors the glory. Their captain gladly giving himself to the sacrifice that would transport him to the place of the gods. That which would ensure the coming of the rains. Another year of life for the people of Chichen-Itza. His head atop a wooden pole, mounted on the altar of the skulls for all to see. The ultimate honor. The crowd stands before, mesmerized by the sight. Me too. Bloodsport!!!
Seriously, I found the hair standing up on the back of my neck. I had come to this place expecting much. I'm not exactly sure what, but, I would leave here having experienced so much more.
Back in Playa del Carmen, surrounded by the modern day Maya faces who clean my room,serve my food and drink. I just can't shake the feeling that I've seen them before in a different time and place, both now a little confused in my mind. Me, almost moving back and forth, here and there. Then and now.
Must remember to locate that copy of the "Popol-Vuh" I acquired long ago but never read. Rennie said that everything that is to be known is in that book.
Wow!!
No comments:
Post a Comment